Allure

Hair

Your Definitive Guide to 1A Hair

 

It’s the finest, straightest, and rarest hair type of all.

If you have fine, pin-straight hair, it may sometimes feel like you’re adrift in a sea of waves, curls, and kinks. There’s a reason for that: It’s the rarest of all hair types, so you may actually be the only person in the room with the thin, straight strands that Andre Walker (Oprah’s longtime hairstylist) has sorted into a category called 1A hair.

Just as with category 2 hair (wavy) or category 3 (curly), straight hair has its own rewards and challenges. Ahead, learn more about how to tell if you’re a member of the 1A club, how hairstylists recommend caring for your hair type, and 1A haircut ideas.

Meet the experts:

• Vanessa Ocando is a hairstylist in New York City.
• Dendy Engelman, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City.
• Raven Hurtado, is a stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.
• Sanae Furutani is a stylist at Jerome Lordet Salon in New York City.

What does 1A hair look like, and how do I know I have it?

This hair category is the straightest of all the hair types. “It lies flat, with no natural wave or curl,” says Vanessa Ocando, a hairstylist in New York City. “It’s typically very soft and can sometimes appear almost slippery.”

Dendy Engelman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist at Shafer Clinic in New York City, adds that its effortless shine can be a boon to some. “Because of [1A’s] smooth structure, oil from the scalp can easily travel down the hair shaft, often resulting in shinier hair compared to more textured types,” says Dr. Engelman. The downside? It tends to get overly greasy quickly. Here’s a hypothetical situation that might help you determine if this is your hair type: You’re away for a long weekend with your girlfriends, and all of you washed your hair before you left home on Thursday. If you’re aghast and reaching for a beanie at the mere thought of waiting until you’re back home on Sunday to shampoo again, you might have 1A hair.

Still not sure if you have this hair type? Think back to the last time you let your hair air-dry with zero assistance from products or styling tools. If it dried completely straight, it’s likely you have 1A. Because 1A hair is so fine and thin, you may also notice that you can see through your strands to your scalp, says Raven Hurtado, a stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago. (A dear friend with 1A hair calls the areas of scalp that show through “holes” in her hair.)

How to keep 1A hair healthy

“This hair, because it’s fine and delicate, you want to treat it like silk,” says Sanae Furutani, a stylist at Jerome Lordet Salon in New York City. Our hairstylists have tips for that.

First, let’s talk brushes. You want a gentle brush for use at all times, but especially when your hair is wet. Ocando recommends a brush like the Tangle Teezer The Ultimate Detangler (which has soft, flexible teeth), a wide-tooth comb, or a boar bristle brush. The latter options can run the gamut on pricing, but Allure editors recommend the Mason Pearson Boar Bristle Hair Brush (if you’re ready to make an investment) or The Hair Edit Boar Bristle Finishing Brush (if you’re looking to give boar bristles a try on a budget).

After your hair is washed, brushed, and ready for styling, make sure the products you’re reaching for aren’t so heavy that they weigh down the hair. According to Ocando, that might mean avoiding creamy styling products entirely, as well as oils or oily serums. (With so much natural shine, you won’t need those oils anyway.) Instead, “opt for lightweight serums or mists to enhance shine without compromising movement,” Furutani says. Try a spray like the Allure Best of Beauty Award-winning Fekkai Full Blown Volume Dry Texturizing Spray, which adds bounce and absorbs excess oil, or Olaplex Volumizing Blow Dry Mist, which protects hair from heat and enhances the volume you’ll get from a blowout.

Lastly, plan to visit the salon every 10 to 12 weeks for a trim. This will “prevent split ends from traveling up the hair shaft,” Furutani says.

 

Tips for washing 1A hair

You might have heard your friends or favorite content creators say that you don’t need to wash your hair every day. If you have 1A hair, that advice might not be for you. “Because type 1A hair is more prone to oiliness, it typically needs to be shampooed more frequently,” says Dr. Engelman. “This varies, though, based on the individual.”

Many people with 1A hair wash their hair every other day. Since 1A-ers will be shampooing often, Dr. Engelman implores you to “avoid harsh or overly drying formulas.” Choose a gentle option like Ouai Fine Hair Shampoo, which was formulated specifically to strengthen and thicken fine hair. Hurtado recommends Seaweed Bath Co. Volumizing Shampoo, which contains “barley protein that adds both thickening and fullness.”

Dr. Engelman also suggests incorporating a scalp scrub into your routine. (We like the acid-swirled Drunk Elephant T.LC. Happi Scalp Scrub.) Scrubs can “help extend the time between washes by removing excess oil and buildup, but should be used no more than once per week.”

 

Best Fine Hair Shampoo & Conditoner

Dove Scalp + Hair Therapy Density Boost Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner

Of course, a little grease never hurt anybody! Perhaps you prefer to go longer without washing, using dry shampoos to stem the tide, or letting your hair’s natural oils shine through. Ocando has a plan for you: “If you go three to four days without shampooing and have a lot of oil buildup, I would recommend shampooing twice [on washdays],” she says. “Once to break up the buildup and the second to clean the hair and scalp.”

That takes care of the shampooing routine, now for the grand finale. Don’t let the need for lightweight products fool you: Hair type 1A requires conditioner. “Conditioner is still very important,” Ocando says. She suggests avoiding the roots, where buildup can be a problem, and applying conditioner only to the hair’s mid-lengths and ends. For a light wash that still leaves you hydrated and refreshed, we love the Beauty of Beauty Award-winning duo Dove Scalp + Hair Therapy Density Boost Hydrating Shampoo and Conditioner.

Tips for styling 1A hair

When asked for the best hairstyles for 1A hair, all three of our expert stylists had two words: blunt bob. “It will create an illusion of thicker hair, and it’s easy to maintain,” says Hurtado. “The style accentuates its sleekness and is fashion-forward,” Furutani adds. “It creates structure and movement without looking too flat,” Ocando says. Blunt bobs require regular trims to keep their shape and clean lines, so the style will encourage you to do your 1A duty and get to your hairstylist’s chair every 10 to 12 weeks.

If you prefer to have long hair, Hurtado recommends face-framing layers to add movement and volume. Furutani takes that shape a step further, suggesting curtain bangs. “The layers add dimension, while the curtain bangs frame the face without overwhelming that fine texture,” she says.

When it comes to styling, take advantage of your hair’s naturally smooth texture and lean into slick styles. Ocando loves a sleek, low ponytail or bun for 1A clients, given the hair’s texture, she says, they “can look ultra-polished with minimal effort.”