Yahoo September 16, 2024
Yahoo
Life
How To Transition To Gray Hair With Lowlights, According To Hairstylists
From Kathy Bates to Meryl Streep, many of the stars who graced the 2024 Primetime Emmy Awards red carpet did so with gorgeous gray hair. You may even be inspired to attempt the look yourself, but even if you’re transitioning to gray hair, that doesn’t mean your mane will magically turn into a uniform, perfect pearl-gray shade overnight. There’s an awkward period involved, and like any different hairstyle you might try, it’s going to take some time to get adjusted to your new hue as you get there.
Meet the experts: Christopher Naselli is a celebrity hairstylist and the owner of Naselli & Co. salon. Guy Tang is a celebrity hairstylist and #Mydentity founder. Tina Deeke, colorist at Maxine Salon in Chicago
“Going gray isn’t always easy for people—gray hair will change skin complexion and change your personal style,” says Christopher Naselli, a celebrity hairstylist and owner of Naselli & Co. salon who works with AGEbeautiful hair color. One thing that can make the transition a little less drastic though? Enter lowlights, a coloring technique that, especially when coupled with highlights, can strategically blend and disguise grays without fully masking them.
“Lowlights are a great way to ease into the process,” says Naselli of going fully gray. If you’re ready to start embracing the silver in your hair that’s starting to shine through—but aren't ready to go 100 percent natural—read on for more information on how to transition to gray hair with lowlights. You might be surprised by how low-maintenance this technique can be.
What are lowlights?
Think of lowlights as essentially the opposite of highlights but even lower-key in terms of what your hair has to go through to reach the desired end result. Where highlights lighten your base color before depositing brighter pigment (after your hair has typically been stripped of its color first), lowlights will deepen hair, and grays don’t need to be stripped to take that color, since they’re already stripped in their natural state.
“Lowlighting is a technique that involves darkening strands of hair using color that is usually the same level as your natural color or darker to create dimension and is a great solution for blending gray without the commitment of a single process color,” says Naselli. With lowlights, you’re only painting color onto some of your strands, utilizing a darker shade to create shadows that add extra depth to your mane and can introduce the appearance of thickness. When teamed up with highlights or babylights, grays tend to be camouflaged into the light meets dark mix.
Finding your best lowlight shade match isn’t all that difficult. “When looking for the right tone, just match your natural level to the lowlight,” says Naselli. “You don’t want to choose a tone that’s much darker than your natural base color because you don’t want to create too much contrast when adding lowlights. You want to create a softer, more natural blend.” Of course, your skin tone will also inform how warm or cool the lowlights should be, so keep that in mind as well when honing in on a hue.
One thing to note: Lowlights typically are a better gray-blending strategy for blonde to medium brown shades. Very dark hair can be more difficult to blend with highlights and lowlights and may fare better with full coverage through a single process dye treatment, depending on how much gray is present. Chat things through with your stylist to see what your options are.
What do lowlights look like on gray hair?
According to Guy Tang, celebrity hairstylist and founder of #Mydentity, lowlights typically look like darker strands of hair that are strategically placed throughout the head to break up your grays and any highlights, if you have them. “Don’t go too dark,” Tang advises. This look is really about subtlety. He suggests a demi-permanent formula where possible, and semi-permanent dyes are an option, too.
Why might someone get lowlights when they start going gray?
Lowlights can be a great stop on the way to an all-over gray style or a technique to downplay your silver streaks if you’re still partial to the hair color you’ve maybe had your whole life and aren’t ready to fully abandon it just yet. If this technique is something you’re considering, Naselli suggests consulting with your stylist. “Be clear on your style and color goals; you might not be ready for the full commitment of letting your hair naturally grow out and committing to a full head of gray hair,” he says. “Lowlighting is the best way to start the process or even just blend away some of the gray that you currently have.”
Lowlights tend to be lower maintenance than highlights and grow out in a natural way, which is great if you don’t want to constantly be in the salon chair. They’re also much easier to DIY, Naselli says, than highlights if you’re comfortable with doing your own hair. Another advantage to lowlights is they can help to correct the brassiness that growing-out grays can sometimes display. “Lowlights will also help fight against any unwanted yellow tones that can happen when you have gray coming through,” says Naselli.
How should lowlights be maintained at home?
Once you’ve achieved your ideal lowlight style, certain at-home strategies will keep your strands looking their freshest in between salon visits. First and foremost, it’s a good idea to shampoo and condition with something that’s specially formulated for color-treated hair.
“The best way to maintain lowlights is by using the right products that ensure hydration and smooth, shiny hair,” says Tang. He recommends a moisturizing, strengthening formula, such as his own MyHero Shampoo and Conditioner, to reduce breakage. “It has hyaluronic acid, which is beneficial for color-treated hair to retain a proper balance of lipids and proteins for healthy-looking hair,” he says. You can fight any unwanted yellowing or brassiness by cycling a gentle purple shampoo into your cleansing routine.
Other ways to transition to gray hair
Another option for transitioning to gray hair? If you already have it, you can simply let it grow out. "I usually try to have clients wait longer than usual for their color so I have more of the natural growth exposed," says Tina Deeke, colorist at Maxine Salon in Chicago. "I'm a fan of going from a permanent color to a demi permanent which typically creates a blending effect on grey hairs. Sometimes this change is enough of a change because the grey hair looks highlighted."