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How to Use Hair Rollers to Curl Hair, According to Experts

 

Nothing has a chokehold on the hair styling space quite like hair rollers. They may have been overshadowed by flashier hot tools for a period, but their time has once again come, thanks to the growing prioritization of hair health and big, bouncy, voluminous hair. From foam, velcro, even t-shirt strip varieties, rollers provide volume, bounce, and springy body without risking any to unnecessary heat damage.

If you're looking to learn how to use hair rollers to curl your hair at home, you're in the right place. Keep scrolling for everything you need to know about using hair rollers according to professional stylists.

Meet the Experts

• Aaron Carlo is a Tresemmé UK hair ambassador and celebrity hairstylist.
• Shelly Aguirre is a stylist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.
• Annagjid “Kee” Taylor is a celebrity hairstylist and the owner of Deeper Than Hair.
• Leysa Carrillo is a hairstylist, colorist, and curly hair expert. She is the founder of Forever Curls Academy and brand ambassador for both Redken and Mizani.

 

How to Use Foam Hair Rollers

"Long foam rollers were originally called Molton Browners—they're for tighter curls or tighter waves, depending on how they're wound. You can apply them to towel-dried hair and sleep in them—as the hair dries, the curl will set," explains celebrity hairstylist, Aaron Carlo.

"Foam rollers have a very easy design for clients to use on their own. The clip to secure them is attached to the roller so some clients will have an easier time. The bigger the roller, the bouncier the hair, the smaller the roller, the more tight the curls will be," adds Chicago-based stylist, Shelly Aguirre.

And if you'd like to try using foam hair rollers for yourself, celebrity hairstylist, Annagjid "Kee" Taylor gave us a step-by-step breakdown:

1. Choose the right size foam roller. This is an important step because the size of the roller will affect the size and shape of the curl.
2. Section your hair into small parts. One for the top, one for each side, and two sections in the back of your hair. Make sure to keep them separated by claw clips.
3. Position your rollers either vertically or horizontally. The way in which you position your rollers will determine the type of curl.
4. Start rolling the top section of your hair. The larger the section of hair, the looser the curl will be.
5. Continue adding foam rollers to the rest of your hair. 
6. Clasp the rollers on the bottom to prevent unsightly crimps or dents.  
7. Foam rollers are soft enough to leave in overnight and remove in the morning.
8. Finish with an oil or serum to combat frizzy ends.

"Velcro rollers will give a gentle set to already blow-dried hair," explains Carlo. "Unless you apply heat with a hair dryer after they're in place, they won't actually change the hair texture."

Aguirre provided us with some additional tips. "Velcro rollers are ideal! They give you volume and lift, without too much curl. I recommend that you use Velcro rollers immediately in place of the round brush sections after you dry. Most clients would need the volume at the crown, so 5 or 6 rollers would do the trick!"

Taylor gives us her step-by-step tutorial below:

1. Prep your hair! Velcro rollers work on damp or dry hair, and you can decide which you want to start with. "When using Velcro on clean dry hair, a little mousse will help maintain that volume," adds Aguirre.
2. Using a comb, make a four to six inch section at the top of your head. Begin making a 1 to 1 ½ inch part at the crown of your head of that section and begin to wind the hair in the roller forward, toward the forehead, complete for each section.
3. Use a blow dryer on the low heat setting for five minutes to speed up the process. Let it sit for 10-20 minutes to set before you unravel. 
4. Depending on how long you want the style to last, set with a soft hold hairspray or mousse for extra staying power.
5. Aguirre adds that velcro rollers can be used for a hair refresh, too. "On day two (or three), use a light hairspray then comb the hair straight up with the roller and leave them in for as long as you can. I teach my clients to put the Velcro’s in and then do their makeup. That gives the hair time to get the most lift."

Carlo adds, "Always roll your hair rollers away from the face, otherwise the hair will bounce forward and look old-fashioned."

How to Use Hot Hair Rollers

Hot rollers are a great option if you're looking for more defined curls that are big and bouncy. And the best part: You don't really have to worry about heat damage.

"I would say that hot rollers will give you more of a “set” look with big and bouncy curls, whereas an iron can be used for a loose wave or tighter curl and everything in between," explains Aguirre. "So if it’s a bouncy style you’re going after, I would recommend the hot roller set. And you can also get more volume with a roller set, however, it might be too much for certain hair types. Most hot rollers are made of ceramic so there won’t be too much heat damage," she adds.

If big, bouncy curls are up your alley, then follow Taylor's handy step-by-step directions.

1. Part your hair into sections. I like making a deep side part, since it will give your hair more volume than a center part.
2. Be sure to protect your hair from the heat. Polish the ends with a heat protection serum first before applying the rollers. 
3. Take the roll and start from the top and then wrap the hair around so the ends aren’t as tight as they would be if you started rolling from the bottom.
4. All of the rollers should be placed vertically to create cascading curls.
5. Leave the rollers in for 20 minutes and then gently loosen the curls with your fingers or wide-tooth comb.
6. Instead of locking it in with hairspray, finish the look with a dry texturizing spray for added movement. 

Byrdie Tip

"If you're using heated rollers, which are preferable because they set the hair quicker, leave them to cool while you apply makeup," says Carlo.

 

How to Use Rag Rollers

The ultimate OG of the roller roundup? Rag rollers. Unlike the barrel-like curls achieved with hot or velcro rollers, rag rollers—or rag curlers, as they're also often called—offer a tighter, springier coil with superheroic staying power. The best part? They're pretty easy to DIY, too. All you need to do is get an old t-shirt or an unwanted garment, and cut it into strips to be used for rolling the hair.

Hairstylist and curl expert Leysa Carrillo walks us through the old-school method:

1. Gather your rollers. If you've purchased a set, you're good to go. If you enjoy DIY pursuits, prepare 15 to 20 strips that are one to two inches wide and eight to 10 inches long. If your hair is longer, create longer strips. If your hair texture is super thick, you may need wider strips.
2. Section damp hair into "square-like" pieces.
3. Begin rolling the ends of the hair onto the strip.
4. When you reach the root, tie the strip in place.
5. Leave in overnight, or until hair is completely dry.

The Final Takeaway

When it comes to curling hair, there are plenty of ways to do it. While technological advancements offer a plethora of great options, traditional techniques continue to deliver enduring curls worthy of their legacy. The true OG method: hair rollers. Whether you're using them on your whole head or just on face-framing pieces for some volume, there's a place for hair rollers in your routine.