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How to Dye Curly Hair Without Sacrificing Its Health, According to Experts

 

Anyone with curly hair knows that this hair type has specific needs when it comes to just about every area of care. That idea still holds true when it comes to coloring. But what tips are there to dye your curly hair so that it stays as healthy as possible? To find out, we asked two hair colorists to walk us through every step of getting your curly hair dyed to keep it in its best shape. Ahead, find the top 7 tips for dying your curly hair without sacrificing its health.

Meet the Expert

• Lorena M. Valdes is a colorist at Maxine Salon in Chicago.
• Ryan Dickie is a colorist at IGK Salon Miami.

 

Come Clean

Show up to the salon with your hair in the best possible state. "It’s my preference to work on relatively clean hair," says colorist Ryan Dickie. "For a curly girl who wears her curls, I do prefer to start on clean dry hair, not blow-dried and not styled—this helps to see the natural curl pattern, allowing me to color in a more bespoke way."

Colorist Lorena Valdez says there's no need to do a specific treatment beforehand. "Moisturizing and hydration treatments are always a great way to prep the hair, but are truly more valuable as a regular part of your hair routine," she tells us, noting that you should "ensure no treatments/conditioners are left in the hair if they are not meant to stay in."

Pick a Dye for Body and Shine

Both experts stress the importance of choosing a professional colorist who uses a dedicated color line. "I wouldn’t recommend anything that isn’t a professional brand with built-in shine or conditioning agents," says Valdez. "There isn’t a [universal option], instead learning what your hair needs is important to determine what’s best for you. If you try a brand and your hair doesn’t feel better (in terms of body or shine) then you may want to try a different line." Dickie agrees, telling us that "as with anything, not all products are created equal. Professional hair colorists are familiar with their color lines, and I always encourage a colorist to study the chemistry of their line."

Apply Correctly

How your colorist applies your dye can ensure the integrity of your hair remains intact. Dickie says he keeps "developer as low as possible to achieve the result and avoiding unnecessary stress on the hair is critical, especially for fine curly hair."

Beyond that, Dickie stresses the importance of removing foils promptly. "Another aspect often overlooked is removing any foils; while application is important, removing foils is a critical time for the health and integrity of the hair," he explains. Lastly, it's all about a caring touch. "Gentleness and patience are key—ripping and tugging out foils on any hair is rough, but especially damaging on fine curly hair," he adds. Valdez says the direction of the application is also important. "Applying downward on a hair stand is always a great way to coat every strand of hair and this can help prevent tangles in the hair when shampooing," she tells us.

Saturate, Saturate

Curly hair may require more dye than straight hair does, due to both density and porosity. Valdez explains that curly hair "may drink up color and require more to saturate; if hair starts to curl up it may need more to lay down into the color. If not it may not create the same deposit or lift." Dickie says that "for a more coarse or coiled texture, a colorist will want to apply more product to fully saturate. A coarse texture can start to absorb the product, causing the product to dry more quickly and become less effective." Additionally, he notes that "hair color is generally created for medium textured, straight hair. This means a more coarse hair texture may appear a bit more hollow than the level of color used and a more fine texture will appear deeper, darker, or less reflective than the level used."

Go Moderate Temperature for Rinsing

When rinsing out your hair, the water temperature should be neither too hot nor too cold. Dickie says that people are all over the place on this one, and he lands in the middle. "In my years, I’ve heard the water temperature theory confirmed and debunked more times than I can count. Many experts have claimed temperate makes a difference, while many others have claimed it’s a myth," he says. "After over a decade of hearing this, I’ve landed somewhere between the two. I choose to rinse all color with mild-temperature water. Not hot, not cold—thus far I haven’t experienced a countable number of complaints on longevity or results." Valdez also says she prefers a temperature in the moderate zone. "Cooler water is always recommended to maintain color longevity. But warm water is my favorite in between as it helps remove color and bit more easily and isn’t hot where it will strip color out," she tells us.

Wait to Wash

The last thing you want to do is leave the salon and then go home and wash your hair, as you risk the possibility of losing a ton of the color you just had put in. "Naturally your cuticle will seal itself within 48-72 hours. I generally advise my clients to wait at least two full days, three when possible. This will guarantee the longest-lasting color," suggests Dickie. This holds true for applying heat, as well. "If you’re prone to color fading fast, I recommend waiting 48-72 hours. Always use a heat protectant even when air drying as it can add UV protection too," recommends Valdez.

If you waited the appropriate amount of time to wash your hair but still notice a huge fade upon washing, Dickie says you should tell your colorist ASAP. "I also advise my clients to never hesitate to let me know if they experience a noticeable difference in their tone within the first two shampoos," he says, adding that "this is a balance of science and art, and sometimes every contributing factor is not on our side. Fading happens, and it’s okay to address it with your colorist."

Keep It Moisturized

No surprises here: You'll want to keep your dyed curly hair as moist as possible. "Deep conditioners should be used once a week," suggests Valdez, who also suggests using a heat protectant every time you wash. Dickie agrees, explaining that "using a deep conditioning mask once weekly will replenish moisture, allowing natural bouncy, touchable, soft curls that hold shine and hold color!" He also recommends adding a hair oil to your haircare routine.

Curly hair may be at risk of damage when you process it, but you have every tool you need to help prevent that now. Go to the salon with clean hair that has been recently deep conditioned, and make sure your colorist chooses a dye that is right for your hair type. From there, ensure they apply it correctly and saturate it well. The temperature of water for rinsing shouldn't be too hot or too cold and remember to wait a couple days before you wash it. After that, deep condition regularly and include a hair oil in your routine. If your color changes drastically after a wash or two, alert your colorist. With these tips, your newly dyed hair can be vibrant for some time, without sacrificing the integrity of your curly hair.